People who say fixed heads won’t fly with fieldpoints haven’t experienced a decent tune. Paper tuning may or may not be a decent tune, same with laser. Broadhead tuning is the way to go, if broadheads hit with fieldpoints your arrows are coming out of the bow straight and you have the good tune you want. And not a big deal to achieve if you follow some simple steps. Good tune means whatever head you shoot you will be more accurate with maximum penetration, and you can practice with fieldpoints on any target. SLICK TRICKS have the reputation of great flight because of superior aerodynamics which makes them more forgiving of tune and form.
Now to the process of tuning. A good tune simply means the arrow is coming out of the bow straight, arrow neither pointing left or right or up or down. FOR MOST PEOPLE getting a good tune is simply a matter of CENTERSHOT and PROPER SPINE. First though, quick check of some easy basics.
- Use helical or offset, not straight vanes. Blazers or longer vanes are fine.
- Be sure broadheads spin on arrows. This simply means putting the tip of the arrow on a table and spinning it like a top to see if there is wobble. TRICKS are machined super precise with a T.I.R. of .001, due to advertising people think MIM heads since they are molded they are straighter, but they are .002. And the structure of machined steel is more consistent and dependable on bone. If you tighten down a TRICK and it doesn’t spin, you can turn it a tad and tighten down again and it will spin as the washer seats better. If they still don’t spin check to see that the insert is in the arrow straight.
- Torquing the bow. You won’t get good arrow flight torquing, which means you won’t get broadheads and fieldpoints to hit together. Also, you will lose penetration. Shoot with a loose grip, and follow through. Hold the bow on target a second after the arrow hits it.
- Fletch contact. Blazers can tick a drop away or cable and you not be aware of it. Put lipstick on the vane and check.
Simply put, move your rest in the direction the fieldpoints are from the broadheads. With arrows coming out of the bow at an angle wind will push broadheads more than it pushes fieldpoints. As you move the rest in the direction of straighter arrow flight both fieldpoint and broadhead impact will move, but the broadheads will be closer to the fieldpoints. For example, suppose your broadheads hit low and to the right of the fieldpoint. First, fix the elevation by moving the rest in the direction the broadhead needs to go toward the fieldpoints, in this case raise the rest slightly until both fieldpoints and broadheads are the same height. Next, fix he horizontal by moving the rest in the direction the broadhead needs to go toward the fieldpoint, in this case move the rest slightly left until both fieldpionts and broadheads merge to the same spot. When your rest is CENTER SHOT both fieldpoints and broadheads will impact the same spot. Now, as the last step, simply move your sight to the spot the fieldpoints and broadheads hit.
IF YOU DON”T GET THEM TOGETHER THEN SPINE MIGHT BE OFF. If broadheads are hitting to the right of fieldpoints you have a WEAK spine. You need a STIFFER spined arrow. The most common error is trying to tune a weak spined arrow. Stop your misery and get some stiffer spined arrows and it’s like magic. Broadheads hitting to the left of fieldpoints (STIFF SPINE) need a weaker spined arrow.
SOLUTIONS: Weak spine lower poundage, less juice puts less stress on arrow effectively making it act stiffer. Stiff spine increase poundage, more juice puts more stress on arrow effectivelymaking it act weaker spined.
Turn your limb bolts counter clockwise 2-4 turns and see if broadheads and fieldpoints come together. If they do you may leave your bow there, or turn your limb bolts back and get arrows with greater spine. Or, turn your limb bolts clockwise, if that works to bring your broadheads and fieldpoints together leave your bow there or turn your limb bolts back and get weaker spined arrows.
If your spine is weak you can go with a lighter broadhead, which will effectively stiffen your spine since you have less weight wiggling. Stiff spine eavier broadhead.
You can cut your arrows shorter and effectively stiffen the spine, or lengthen for weaker spine. Most tend to want the arrow as close to the rest as possible so they discount this option however.
Spine arrow charts: These are general guesstimates. Reason being there is a great range of cam energy, ranging from a soft wheel cam all the way to your 350fps super hard cams. One guy’s hard cam may not be the same as another guy’s hard cam. The charts have a range of poundage, and different cams have a range of energy. If you have a hot bow you could need a spine stiffer than the chart reads.
If borderline or doubtful, try the stiffer arrow.
The above gets the great majority tuned, unless your nock point is not traveling straight. If your idler wheel is leaning, use the harness to straighten. Or check to see cams are timed.
Doing the above your bow should be tuned so your broadheads and fieldpoints hit together. You are now a more accurate, confident and deadly bowhunter getting maximum penetration and performance from your bow, arrow and broadhead. CONGRATS!!!